After Pomene, a breathtaking sailing and snorkeling trip through the Bazaruto Archipeligo has marked a turning point in the trip. It was one of the few things Ralph really wanted to do, back in Marin Ralph would periodically call me over his computer, to admire google (to ogle google = to gogle? or to oogle?) images of Bazaruto.
After being thwarted by the weather for a while, Ralph finally chartered our own dhow to sail us on an overnight trip to Bazaruto. We arrived at the sailing company, a bit late as we’d run out of suntan lotion and had spent an hour tracking down THE LAST BOTTLE of suntan lotion for sale in Vilankulos (pop. 50,000) It was Factor 15 and cost $30!!
We were hugely excited, and standing there was a Spanish backpacker. Turns out the charter company had told this guy he could join us. Hm, the look on Ralph’s face told me this could not be. One way and another this was conveyed to the backbacker. He was very ungracious about it and as he left, Ralph apologised one last time and he said “I hope you enjoy… your SELFISH trip”. Anyway he kind of looked and sounded like the villain from Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Last Ark just before he melts before the Covenant, so we felt relieved rather than too bad.
At last we went snorkelling with amazing visibility and abundant fish. Ralph ran up and down dunes till he could hardly stand. We ate grilled kingfish and cabbage salad in the shade of the sails. We saw a dolphin, ate rolos, played charades and Bea and I leant a Portuguese folk song from our guide, Rosario. What a brilliantly selfish trip!
That Factor 15 has left me looking so tanned, and my hair is so unruly, that I look like a snapshot of a super-tanned, permed 1980’s South African mom. My mom! Yes mom you know those photos from Plett…The only thing missing is the shiny lipstick and light eyeshadow! Loving it! Mila asked Ralph “are you growing side-bangs? so I guess we’re all letting it hang loose.